The Greek dish called Kleftiko – basically lamb shoulder or shank braised in white wine, stock and herbs – is one of my favourite creations of all time. It originated with bandidos who cooked it under the ground so no one would know their whereabouts as they prepared dinner while leading a life of crime in the Greek countryside.

For a long time, I was convinced that the best version of this dish was the one at Lemonia: a wondrous Greek restaurant near my mother’s Primrose Hill home in London, England.

However, on my most recent trip to visit her earlier this year, I found a rendition that surpassed even this delectable creation. Believe it or not, the ultimate Kleftiko (admittedly I haven’t sleuthed it yet in North America) is to be had at Retsina, a family-run Greek eatery in the same vicinity as Lemonia and one I discovered when it was a finalist on Gordon Ramsay’s TV search for top neighbourhood dining spots. Read more…