My creamy old-fashioned potato salad uses pickle juice

This feature appeared in the Toronto Star in 1996. My favourite version is the first one.

“Potato salad: A cold or hot side dish made with potatoes, mayonnaise and seasonings. It became very popular in the second half of the nineteenth century and is a staple of both home and food-store kitchens.” — John Mariani: The Dictionary of American Food and Drink

Okay, so the historical background may be a tad skimpy. But few would deny that when it comes to both popularity and versatility, few dishes can beat potato salad.

Many – perhaps, most – of its fans insist this popular creation must be made the old-fashioned way with lots of creamy mayo, plenty of pickle juice and the delectable crunch of celery and onions.

Some, on the other hand, like it hot. There are those who insist on baby boiled potatoes, while inventive chefs and others seriously into grilling are wont to make their salad with barbecued spuds.

A few really creative types, influenced by fusion cooking, Asian flavors and their ilk, even dare to add cumin, cayenne and fresh coriander to a dish whose reputation is as North American as apple pie.

So you be the judge. We offer an array of delectable twists on a tried-and-true theme so you can decide which spud’s for you. By the way, we used Yukon Gold potatoes for all of these; P.E.I. or any similar spud would also work well. Since the skins are thin at this time of year, we scrubbed but did not peel them.

Old-Fashioned Potato Salad

Only use mealy-fleshed, not waxy, potatoes for this. I prefer the real Yukon Gold – not the ersatz “yellow-fleshed” potatoes now so common in supermarkets. Optional additions are chopped hard-boiled egg, thinly sliced radishes or chopped red bell pepper and cucumber. This could easily be doubled for a crowd. I sometimes use sour cream instead of Miracle Whip. I like to assemble the salad when the potatoes are still warm.

3 lb (1 1/2 kg) Yukon Gold, russet or Idaho potatoes, scrubbed and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1/4 cup dill pickle juice
2/3 cup mayonnaise
1/3 cup Miracle Whip
2 hard-boiled eggs, chopped
1 large dill pickle, chopped
2 stalks celery, chopped
2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley
4 green onions, chopped
Salt and pepper to taste

Boil potatoes until soft, 8 to 10 minutes. Drain; transfer to large bowl. While potatoes are still hot, stir in pickle juice. 

In small bowl, stir together mayonnaise and Miracle Whip. Add to potatoes along with remaining ingredients. Gently toss together. Taste; adjust seasoning.

Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Low-Fat Creamy Potato Salad

If you’re not too worried about the extra fat, use 3 whole eggs instead of the 6 whites. This super salad has extra protein from the tofu.

2 lb (1 kg) potatoes, scrubbed and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
6 oz (175 g) drained soft tofu, about 1 cup
1/4 cup low-fat mayonnaise
1/4 cup low-fat plain yogurt
2 tsp cider, white wine or plain vinegar
2 tbsp dijon mustard
2 cloves garlic, minced
6 hard-cooked egg whites, coarsely chopped
2 stalks celery, chopped
2 green onions, chopped
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Sprinkle of paprika

Boil potatoes until soft, about 8 to 10 minutes. Drain, transfer to bowl.

In food processor, puree tofu, mayonnaise, yogurt, vinegar, mustard and garlic until smooth. Add to potatoes along with egg whites, celery, green onions, salt and pepper. Gently stir together. Chill at least 2 hours or overnight. Taste; adjust seasoning. Sprinkle with paprika before serving.

Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Roasted Potato Salad

1 whole garlic head
1 red pepper
2 lb (1 kg) potatoes, scrubbed and cut in chunks
1 tbsp olive oil
3/8 cup chopped red onion

Balsamic vinaigrette:
2 tbsp balsamic vinegar
1/4 cup olive oil
1 tsp dijon mustard
1 tsp chopped fresh thyme
Dash of cayenne or hot pepper sauce
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Cut 1/2-inch off top of garlic head. (Save garlic top for other use.) Place garlic head in small baking dish. Drizzle with a little olive oil, salt and pepper. Cover tightly with aluminium foil and bake 1 1/2 hours in preheated 300F oven, or until very tender when squeezed. Cool.

Broil or barbecue whole red pepper over medium-high heat until blackened evenly all over. Place in paper bag; seal. Let cool in bag at least 15 minutes. Remove and discard blackened skin and seeds. Cut pepper into thin strips.

Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in roasting pan in preheated 425F oven a few minutes until oil is hot. Add potatoes; toss to coat evenly with oil. Roast 35 minutes in 425F oven or until soft and golden brown, turning a few times throughout cooking.

To make vinaigrette, whisk together ingredients in small bowl.

Squeeze roasted garlic pulp into large serving bowl. Add red pepper, potatoes, onions and vinaigrette. Toss. Taste; adjust seasoning. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Indian Potato Salad

A clever rendition from High-Flavor Low-Fat Vegetarian Cooking (Viking) by Steven Raichlen.

1 1/2 lb (750 g) potatoes, scrubbed and cut in 1/2-inch cubes
1 tbsp garam masala
1/4 tsp turmeric
2/3 cup plain yogurt
2 tbsp lemon juice
1/2 tsp cumin seeds
1 tomato, seeded and cut into 1/2-inch dice
1/4 cup finely chopped red onion
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1/4 cup chopped fresh coriander
2 tbsp chopped fresh mint (optional)

Boil potatoes until soft, about 8 to 10 minutes. Drain; transfer to large bowl.

In small bowl, combine garam masala, turmeric, 1/2 cup yogurt, and lemon juice. Stir into potatoes. Cool completely.

Lightly toast cumin seeds in dry skillet over medium heat until fragrant and lightly browned, about 3 minutes.

Before serving, stir cumin seeds, tomatoes, onions, salt, pepper, half the coriander and mint into potato mixture. Taste; adjust seasoning. Transfer salad to platter. Spoon remaining yogurt into centre and sprinkle with remaining coriander.

Makes 4 servings.

Aegean Potato Salad for a Crowd

From the new Moosewood Restaurant Cooks for a Crowd (Wiley) by The Moosewood Collective.

9 lb (4 kg) potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1/2 lb (250g) feta cheese, crumbled, about 2 cups
1 cup grated parmesan cheese
1 lb (500 g) ricotta cheese, about 2 cups
6 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 1/2 cups olive oil
1 cup cider vinegar
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 1/2 cups chopped green onions
2 tbsp chopped fresh dill
Black olives (garnish)
Tomato wedges (garnish)

Boil potatoes in large saucepan until soft, 8 to 10 minutes. Drain; transfer to very large bowl. Puree cheeses, garlic, oil, and vinegar in food processor.

While potatoes are still hot, add cheese mixture, salt, pepper, green onions and dill. Gently stir to coat potatoes. Taste; adjust seasoning. Chill.

Garnish with olives and tomato wedges.

Makes 24 servings.