Keith Richards liked my article so much, he signed a copy. It appeared in the Toronto Star in the summer of 1994 while The Rolling Stones were living in Toronto rehearsing for their Voodoo Lounge tour. (Update: I’ve recently perfected the ultimate version of Shepherd’s Pie that appears on the Recipes page of this site.)
By Marion Kane Toronto Star
“It’s certainly unfair to say that the English lack both a cuisine and a sense of humor. Their cooking is a joke in itself.” – Calvin Trillin in the foreword to Great British Cooking (HarperCollins)
I, for one, take umbrage at this cheap shot by the usually right-on and often witty Mr. Trillin.
After all, not only is the United Kingdom the source of some of the world’s best comedy (Peter Sellers, Monty Python and the hilarious new TV series Absolutely Fabulous immediately leap to mind), it is also the birthplace of notable culinary creations like Spotted Dick (a no-nonsense steamed dessert that gets its name from the raisins and currants that inundate it), Summer Pudding (the best thing ever to happen to a fresh berry) and, of course, Shepherd’s Pie.
Which, without missing a beat, brings us to The Rolling Stones, who play their two much-awaited concerts at Exhibition Stadium this weekend.
It brings us in particular to Keith Richards (quick apologies here to Mick lest he feel ignored and a note to him that we ran his excellent recipe for shrimp curry in this section last September). Richards, by all accounts, is a serious shepherd’s pie fan.
And I mean serious.
“Once a member of the crew ate his shepherd’s pie and Keith threatened to cut him up and put his legs in a shepherd’s pie, ” goes the quote from Richards’s first wife, Anita Pallenberg, in Keith Richards: The Biography (Poseidon Press) by Victor Bockris. “So he gets his shepherd’s pie, miles of shepherd’s pie everywhere. He’s always got shepherd’s pie and he doesn’t have to worry about it.”
At least, almost always.
Apparently, before the huge, no-holds-barred 1989 Stones concert here at the SkyDome, a replica of an English pub was set up backstage at which a pre-concert meal was served.
But, as caterer Greg Howe told The Star last year: “Keith Richards arrived late. There were literally two spoonfuls of shepherd’s pie left.” Response from the pie-deprived Keef (as he is affectionately known) was short and not-so-sweet. “Where’s the rest?” asked he. “Get some more of it or I don’t go on.” Not surprisingly, the matter was resolved tout de suite: “We did and he did, ” Howe recalls.
Keef is not alone in being a devotee of shepherd’s pie.
I have fond memories of this British standby when it was a regular on the rotating hot lunch menu (usually the day after its more elegant kissing cousin, roast beef) when I was a schoolkid in Jolly Old. Served with a good slathering of thick brown gravy (its source, natch, that trusty box of Bisto) and your mandatory two veg, shepherd’s pie was up there for me with Spam fritters and rice pudding.
It has also long been a fave of former Brit Geoffrey Pimblett, owner of the wonderfully quirky restaurant, Pimblett’s, at 263 Gerrard St. E., which specializes in British food.
“Shepherd’s pie is, quite simply, good grub, ” Pimblett’s replies cheerfully when I ask for an opinion on our dish du jour.
“I didn’t put it on our dinner menu for a long time, ” he continues, “I thought it was a lunch sort of thing – not exotic enough for a dinner menu. But when I did, eight years ago, it became a big seller. These days, it’s up there with fish and chips, and steak and kidney pie.”
Pimblett, whose family ran a pie shop in Lancashire for many years, has done his research on this illustrious dish.
“Traditionally, it was made from the leftover Sunday roast, a lot like Bubble and Squeak (a fry-up of meat and veg), ” he explains. “And often, that roast would have been leg of lamb, although in one of Mrs. Beeton’s books, she does make it with leftover beef.”
Pimblett recalls his mother’s version which, “although very good, was a tad bland. I remember I had to pour practically a whole jar of HP sauce on it!” At his restaurant, Pimblett adds some non-traditional items for extra flavor: “I often use herbs, more beef stock and sometimes I even put HP sauce in with the meat.”
Michael Bonacini, chef and co-owner at the busy, new downtown eatery Jump Cafe and Bar, in Commerce Court East at Yonge and Wellington Sts., also attributes his penchant for shepherd’s pie to his British roots.
“Shepherd’s pie is comfort food, ” Bonacini says. “It reminds me of home. In fact, I don’t think there’s a household in the U.K. where it hasn’t been served at some time.”
As a kid growing up in Pembrokeshire, Wales, Bonacini ate shepherd’s pie prepared by his English mum (his dad hails from northern Italy) “at least once every two or three weeks.” ‘Shepherd’s pie is comfort food. It reminds me of home, ‘ says chef Bonacini, who grew up in Wales. In the Bonacini family, it was made from lamb, “since they raised a lot of sheep in the region where I grew up.”
Bonacini recalls the best shepherd’s pie he has ever eaten: “They served it at the pub in Wales near the chefs’ school I attended. It was delicious – maybe from sitting in the steamer for two or three hours!”
As for shepherd’s pie on Jump’s menu, Bonacini plans to add it to his repertoire this fall: “I’ll make it with beef and lamb and call it Keith Richards Shepherd’s Pie. After all, we have a Keith and a Richard working here.”
Even vegetarian chef Ken Quinn of the newly opened Imagine Cafe at 96 Spadina Ave. has nothing but praise for shepherd’s pie. “It’s one of our bestselling items, ” Quinn says of his rendition, made without beef or lamb, but with protein-packed lentils in the bottom layer and tofu mixed in with the potato topping.
“It’s a nutritious, filling dish, ” says Quinn when asked about the appeal of this downhome dish. “It’s peasant food, it’s inexpensive and it’s a crowd-pleaser. It’s a food people can relate to.”
Couldn’t have said it better meself. Nor, I’m sure, could Keith Richards. So here, as a Toronto toast to Keef, the Rolling Stones and good old rock ‘n’ roll, are some shepherd’s pie recipes guaranteed to offer satisfaction.
Pimblett’s Shepherd’s Pie
Your basic, old-fashioned British version from Geoffrey Pimblett.
Potato Topping:
- 6 medium potatoes, peeled, quartered
- ¼ cup milk
- 1 tbsp butter
- Generous pinch nutmeg
- Salt and pepper
Filling:
- 2 tbsp olive oil
- 2 medium onions, chopped
- 1 tbsp finely chopped parsley
- 1 tsp each: dried thyme, sage
- 1 lb (500 g) lean ground beef
- ¼ cup water
- 2 medium carrots, finely chopped
- 2 tbsp all-purpose flour
- 1 beef bouillon cube
- 1 tsp granulated sugar
- 1 tsp each: ketchup, Dijon mustard, Worcestershire sauce
- Salt and pepper
For topping, place potatoes in large saucepan of cold, salted water. Bring to boil, then simmer partially covered 20 minutes or until very tender. Drain. Add milk, butter, nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste. Mash potatoes until smooth and fluffy. Keep warm.
For filling, heat oil in large skillet over medium heat. Add onions, parsley, thyme and sage. Cook 5 minutes or until onions have softened slightly. Add beef and water to pan, stirring frequently to break up meat; cook until no longer pink, about 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in carrots; cover, reduce heat and cook 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Stirring continuously, add flour, bouillon cube, sugar, ketchup, mustard, worcestershire sauce, salt and pepper to taste. Cook 5 minutes. Skim and discard any fat.
Place meat mixture in buttered ovenproof casserole dish about 9 inches square. Spread potato mixture on top. Score topping using prongs of fork. Bake in preheated 350F oven 30 to 40 minutes, until potatoes are golden brown on top and filling is hot.
Makes 4 servings.
Honky Tonk Shepherd’s Pie
Chef Michael Bonacini gave this appropriate title to his superb, haute version.
Potato Topping:
- 4 large Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled, quartered
- ¼ cup whipping cream
- 2 tbsp butter
- 2 egg yolks
- Generous pinch nutmeg
- Salt and pepper
Filling:
- 3 tbsp olive oil
- 1 tsp butter
- 1 small onion, finely diced
- 1 clove garlic, crushed
- Pinch chili flakes
- 1 medium carrot, finely chopped
- 1 stalk celery, finely chopped
- 1 sprig fresh thyme (or 1 tsp dried)
- Salt and pepper
- 8 oz (250 g) lean ground beef
- 8 oz (250 g) ground lamb
- 2 tbsp all-purpose flour
- ¼ cup chicken or beef stock
- 1½ tbsp tomato paste
- ½ cup chopped assorted wild mushrooms (oyster, portobello or shiitake)
- 1 medium ripe tomato, sliced
For topping, place potatoes in large saucepan of cold, salted water. Bring to boil and simmer partially covered 20 minutes or until very tender. Drain. Mash in pot until smooth. Add cream, butter, egg yolks, nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste. Mash until smooth and fluffy. Keep warm.
For filling, heat 1 tablespoon oil and butter in large skillet over medium-high heat. Add onion, garlic and chili flakes; cook 2 minutes. Add carrot, celery, thyme, salt and pepper to taste; cook 3 minutes. Set aside in bowl.
Add 1 tablespoon oil to skillet and heat over medium-high heat. Add beef and lamb; cook, stirring continuously, until meat is no longer pink. Stir in flour, salt and pepper to taste.
Discard sprig of thyme and any excess fat from pan. Add vegetable mixture to meat in pan. Stir in stock and tomato paste. Reduce heat and cook covered on low heat 15 minutes, stirring frequently.
Meanwhile, in separate small frying pan, heat remaining oil over medium-high heat. Add mushrooms; cook 2 minutes until soft. Sprinkle mushrooms on to bottom of ovenproof casserole dish, about 8 inches square. Pour meat mixture over top, spreading evenly. Place tomato slices on meat. Either pipe mashed potatoes over meat mixture using piping bag fitted with star tip or spread potatoes over meat mixture.
Bake in preheated 375F oven 25 to 30 minutes until potatoes are golden and meat mixture is hot. If potatoes are not golden, place under broiler 2 minutes. Let stand 5 minutes before serving.
Makes 4 servings.
Veggie Shepherd’s Pie
A delectable, meatless rendition from Ken Quinn. Add dried or fresh herbs of choice to gravy if you find it too bland.
Potato Topping:
- 6 medium potatoes, peeled, quartered
- ¼ cup soft tofu
- ¼ cup water
- 1 clove garlic
- 1 tbsp coarsely chopped, peeled fresh ginger or fresh horseradish
- 2 tbsp olive oil
- 1 tbsp lemon juice
- Salt and pepper to taste
Filling:
- 3 tbsp olive oil
- 4-inch portobello mushroom in ½-inch dice
- 1 tbsp soy sauce or tamari
- 1 cup chopped onion (about 1 large onion)
- 1 clove garlic, minced
- 2 tbsp minced fresh ginger
- ½ tsp each: dried basil, savory, thyme
- 1 cup carrots in ¼-inch dice (about 3 carrots)
- 1 cup parsnips in ¼-inch dice (about 3 parsnips)
- ½ cup potato in ¼-inch dice (about 1 potato)
- 1 cup fresh corn kernels
- 1¼ cups vegetable stock or water
- ½ cup peas
- 2 tbsp tomato paste
- 1 cup cooked lentils
- Salt and pepper
Portobello Gravy:
- 2 tbsp olive oil
- 3-inch portobello mushroom, cut into 1½-inch strips
- 1 large onion, chopped
- 1 tbsp minced fresh ginger
- ¼ cup soy sauce or tamari
- 3½ cups vegetable stock
- 4 tbsp cornstarch
- ½ cup finely chopped parsley
For topping, place potatoes in large saucepan of cold, salted water. Bring to boil and simmer partially covered 20 minutes or until very tender.
Meanwhile, place tofu, water, garlic, ginger or horseradish, olive oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper in blender or food processor; blend until smooth.
Drain potatoes. Add tofu mixture and mash until smooth. Keep warm.
For filling, heat oil in large skillet over high heat. Add mushroom, stirring frequently until golden brown. Stir in soy sauce or tamari. Reduce heat to medium-high. Add onion and cook until softened, about 3 minutes. Add garlic, ginger and herbs; cook 1 minute. Add carrots, parsnips, potato, corn and ¼ cup stock or water. Cook covered on medium heat, stirring frequently until vegetables are nearly tender, about 15 minutes. Stir in peas, tomato paste, lentils and remaining stock or water; simmer uncovered 5 minutes.
Spoon into ovenproof casserole dish about 9 inches square. Cover with mashed potato mixture. Bake in preheated 375F oven 30 to 35 minutes, until potatoes are golden and filling is hot.
Meanwhile, for gravy, heat oil in large saucepan over high heat. Add mushroom and cook 2 minutes until softened. Add onion and ginger; cook 3 minutes over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally. Add soy sauce or tamari; cook 1 minute. Add 3 cups stock; bring to boil. Dissolve cornstarch into remaining stock. Whisk into boiling liquid, reduce heat and simmer 3 minutes or until liquid is clear. Stir in parsley.
Serve gravy hot with shepherd’s pie.
Makes 4 servings.