In the 70s, cheese fondue was my go-to entertaining dish. I adapted and streamlined a recipe from Food & Wine magazine – it is a winner. If the pot that came with your fondue set is not heavy-duty, use a heavy-bottomed saucepan to cook the fondue then transfer the mixture to the fondue pot for serving at the table. I serve with bite-sized cubes of French baguette for dipping into two Swiss varieties melted cheese. If you have bought the cheese, the equivalent shredded 4 cups of Gruyère and about 2 cups of Emmental. Cornichons are a nice accompaniment as a palate cleanser; they cut the richness and give some crunch. I sometimes omit garlic, kirsch, black pepper and nutmeg.

1 clove garlic, halved
1 cup dry white wine
1 lb/454 g Gruyère cheese, 4 cups shredded
8 oz/225 g Emmental cheese, 2 cups shredded
4 tsp cornstarch
1 tsp fresh lemon juice
1½ tbsp kirsch (optional)
Pinch freshly ground black pepper (optional)
Pinch grated nutmeg (optional)

Rub inside of heavy-bottomed saucepan with cut side of garlic; discard garlic. Stir in wine, cheeses, cornstarch and lemon juice; cook, stirring (or whisking)  occasionally, over medium-low heat until cheese starts to melt, about 5 minutes.

Reduce heat to low. Stir in kirsch, if using, pepper and nutmeg; cook, stirring gently, until creamy and smooth, about 3 minutes. Do not overcook; mixture can become stringy. Serve at once.

Makes about 6 servings.